Bow Arts speaks to London-based fashion designer Abigail Ajobi as she shares an insight into her work and the impact of culture in her collections.

Introduce yourself and tell us a little about your practice

Hi, I am Abigail Ajobi, a London-based Fashion Designer, DJ, and Creative Director. My brand specialises in luxury streetwear with a focus on community empowerment, the spread of social/ cultural awareness and sustainability.

What are your artistic influences and inspirations?

My culture and environment are my biggest artistic inspirations. Collections often develop from a feeling reflecting my state of mind at the time, and the cultural impact of that moment. I also like confronting social issues.

From my first collection, ‘those who don’t…hear my feel‘: just coming out of university and being driven to “change the world”, to my second collection, ‘Tier 2’: where we were all consumed by the effects of lockdown. Then to my parent’s love story: being so in awe of love, who my parents are as individuals, and also who they are as a couple.

Now with ‘ANTI-MUSE’, it’s been a time where I’m in a rebellious era…but also delving into my identity more as I grow both in age and experience.

The process then evolves from concept into business and commercial viability, more so now than in my earlier collections. Taking into perception the customer and who is at the receiving end of the product whilst still keeping the integrity of the creative concept at the heart.

How does having an affordable studio space impact your practice?

Having a studio is great! It means I can create in a professional environment and have a healthy balance between work and social life…which is important when you work in an industry where lines can so easily be blurred.

You recently help an open-air catwalk in Camden, what made you want organise this and what kind of work was showcased?

The collection entitled capsule collection, “I’M NOT ENGLISH, I’M BRITISH” – JAPA SYNDROME, was displayed during last seasons London Fashion Week and speaks to the feeling of unbelonging and the complex identity of growing up in the UK while being disconnected from my heritage. My parents grew up in Nigeria, as opposed to myself and my siblings who were born and raised in the UK. “I’m not English, I’m British’ is a phrase I said to my parents a lot while growing up after many times of being referred to as an ‘English kid’. It is a phrase that highlights a dual identity yet also not quite fitting in on either side.

The term “Japa” – a Yoruba word meaning “to break away”, is unique to Nigerians, but the theory behind ‘Japa Syndrome’ is leaving your home country in search of a more fulfilling life that is not synonymous with one nation. However, the grass is not always greener.

The collection is highlighted using classic British textiles, such as tartan and dogtooth, then I distorted it through digital print into wavy patterns to symbolise the movement and fluidity of identity that also represents the intertwining of my Nigerian and British culture. Denim, traditionally associated with blue-collar immigrant workers, also plays a key role in the collection, serving as a metaphor for the resilience and labour of those (alike my parents) who migrated in search of better opportunities.

I wanted something that felt grungy and authentic with a feeling as rebellious as the collection itself. The punk rock aesthetic of 2000s London meets Yoruba royalty, and what better than a Camden council estate with models wearing Doc Martens.

What are the challenges you face as an artist?

Cashflow! Balancing your creativity (and life) whilst keeping the customer in mind for a sellable end product.

Finally, what are you up to at the moment and where can we find your work?

I am working on expanding the brand more through community engagement. I want to add to the brand holistically whilst giving back, whether that be through events or even DJing. Creating atmospheres that are about more than just the clothes.

Website: Abigail Ajobi

Instagram: @ajobi_ or @abigailajobi

About Abigail Ajobi

The London-based Fashion Designer Abigail Ajobi founded her name-sake brand in October 2020, specialising in luxury streetwear. The ethos of the brand is fuelled by its mission to spread social / cultural awareness community empowerment, and sustainability with each collection supporting a charity relating to the theme. Their print-based designers makes each of their pieces just as unique as the people that wear them. Their signature ‘convertible clothing’ functionality means many of the pieces can be worn in multiple different ways. This allows customers to be more versatile in their style and encourages them to love their clothes for longer. Since launching, Abigail Ajobi has appeared in ELLE, British Vogue, The Times, Style Magazine, and was named as WWD’s ‘Ones to Watch’. Ajobi has also been awarded with UAL’s Enterprise Award for her contributions to sustainability and community empowerment, as well as being shortlisted for the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN Award. In addition to being the creative director of an illustrious brand, Ajobi is also a guest practitioner on courses across London College of Fashion. Stockists: itsajobi.com, Selfridges, Glamcult store, Jendaya, Not just a shop, Machine A.